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I planted a total of about 60 chestnut trees over the past 11 years. Each year, about 10-20% just don’t make it. We mostly plant in the fall.
Are these failures preventable? Some of them, yes.
If you’re planning a chestnut planting, or if you’re watching your first-second year trees and wondering why some look terrible, this article might save you a few hundred dollars and a lot of heartache.
The Year Two Die-Off Is Real
Here’s what typically happens:
- Year one: Plant seeds that have been stratifying over winter in planting bed. Seedlings leaf out, look okay, maybe grow 8-16 inches. Survival rate: 85-95%. Plant in growing location in fall.
- Year two: Some trees fail to leaf out in spring, or leaf out weakly and die by mid-summer. Survival rate drops to 70-80%.
The question is: why?
The Five Killers (And How to Stop Them)
1. Root Competition from Grass (The Silent Killer)
This one sneaks up on you because the tree doesn’t die dramatically—it just struggles, puts out weak growth, and eventually gives up.
Young chestnuts have small root systems. Grass has massive root systems. Guess who wins the competition for water and nutrients?
Why year two? Year one, you were diligent about weed control because the seedlings were in a pampered planting bed. In my case, the planting bed is at my residence, where I can check on them daily. Year two, you got busy with other farm tasks, not to mention just getting to farm doesn’t happen every week. The grass crept in. By the time you noticed, the tree was already stressed.
What it looks like: Stunted growth, small leaves, early leaf drop. The tree isn’t dead, but it’s not thriving. By year three, it may be too late.
How I learned this: I used 2-foot weed mat squares. Grass grew right up to the edge and sent roots underneath. Grass clumps also root in the space right next to the seedling. Several trees barely grew in year two while trees with better weed control shot up 2-4 feet.
The fix:
- Use 3-foot minimum weed mat squares or circles
- Wood chip mulch 3-4 inches deep in a 4-foot circle around each tree
- Mow or string-trim within 5-10 feet of tree rows regularly
- Some growers use landscape fabric in a strip along the entire tree row – this simplifies mowing logistics
- Herbicide (glyphosate) carefully applied around trees—just keep it off the trunk and leaves
Cost to prevent: $1-3 per tree for better mulch/fabric vs. years of stunted growth
2. Voles/Field Mice
Some of my seedlings were killed by voles. Voles chew the bark in a ring around the base, often during the colder months, and the tree dies. You don’t even know it happened until spring when the tree fails to leaf out.
Why year two? Voles build tunnel systems over winter. By the second winter, they’ve established runs right through your planting. First winter, they’re still exploring.
What it looks like: Tree fails to leaf out in spring, or leaves are small and yellow. Pull back the mulch and you’ll see chewed bark at the base, sometimes completely girdled.
How I learned this the hard way: I used tree tubes. Trees were protected, but not necessarily from field mice. They went right under.
The fix:
- Use hardware cloth (1/4″ mesh) around the base, buried 3-4 inches deep
- Check tubes monthly in winter—if you see vole holes nearby, investigate
- Some growers use gravel mulch instead of wood chips (voles hate digging through gravel)
- Barn cats help, if you have them. Also owl or raptor housing/perches can help.
- Or you can try to drop a mothball in the tree tube, since voles don’t like mothballs
Cost to prevent: $1-3 per tree for hardware cloth vs. $5-8 per replacement tree seedling
3. Drought Stress (The Overlooked Killer)
Here’s what nobody tells you: chestnuts need consistent moisture for the first 2-3 years. Not flooded, but not bone dry either.
Many people plant in spring, water diligently through summer, then forget about them. The trees go into their second summer with inadequate root systems, hit a July dry spell, and die.
Why year two? First summer, everyone remembers to water. Second summer, the trees look established, so you assume they’re fine. They could be, if enough rooting was established through that first winter. Then again, they may be needing that second growing season to get more comfortably established.
What it looks like: Leaves wilt and crisp up at the edges, then the whole tree browns out. By the time you notice, it’s often too late.
How I learned this: We lost several seedlings during droughts over the last few years. For us, the first summer in the growing location is crucial. If they can survive that first summer, they stand a good chance.
The fix:
- Water year two just like year one—weekly deep watering in dry periods
- Use gator bags or similar slow-release watering systems (even a 5 gal. bucket with a small hole in the bottom)
- Thick mulch helps retain moisture (see point #2)
- Consider drip irrigation if you’re planting more than 50 trees
- Plant on better soil if possible—avoid the high, dry spots
Cost to prevent: $15-30 per tree for gator bags or minimal for manual watering
4. Planting Depth Problems (The Beginner Mistake)
This kills trees slowly. You plant too deep, the trunk stays wet, rot sets in, the tree declines over 18 months and dies.
Or you plant too shallow, roots dry out, tree can’t establish, and it dies in year two when it runs out of reserves.
Why year two? Planting depth problems don’t kill immediately. The tree uses stored energy to survive year one. Year two, when it needs to rely on its root system, there’s nothing there.
What it looks like:
- Too deep: Bark darkening near soil line, weak growth, early decline
- Too shallow: Roots visible at surface, poor growth
How to plant correctly:
- Find the root collar (where roots flare out from trunk)
- Plant so root collar is AT or slightly ABOVE soil level
- Mulch around (not touching) the trunk
- Better too shallow than too deep—you can always add soil later
The fix if already planted wrong:
- Too deep: Carefully excavate soil from around trunk base, expose root collar
- Too shallow: Add soil around roots, but keep trunk clear
Cost to prevent: Free, just takes attention to detail
5. Deer Rubbing (The Fall Surprise)
This is less common than the others, but it’s devastating when it happens. Fall comes, bucks rub enticing small trees with their antlers, and your tree gets destroyed.
When does this happen? Year one trees are way too small and flexible. Year two, they’re usually still too small. Year 3-5, they may be just the right size—trunk diameter of 1-2 inches, perfect rubbing height for smaller bucks.
What it looks like: Bark stripped off one side or completely around the trunk. If girdled, tree is dead. If partial, tree may survive but will be permanently damaged.
How I learned this: I kept my tree tubes on specifically because of this risk. I’ve lost several year-two trees to buck rub on other species planted without protection.
The fix:
- Keep tree tubes on until risk of buck rub has passed (trunk at least 3-5 inches in diameter), not just 1-2 inches in diameter
- Use at least 5-foot tubes, not 3 or 4-foot
- Wire cages will also work but deer can still reach through for browse if branches are growing close to cage, and they will. I’ve also had a wire cage attached to a 5ft t-post ripped away from the tree, and the tree destroyed by deer rubbing.
- Some growers use double protection: tube inside a wire cage, adds to cost though
- Remove tubes once trunk diameter exceeds 3-4 inches
Cost to prevent: Already covered if you keep original tubes on longer
The Compounding Effect
These problems can compound.
A tree weakened by poor weed control is more vulnerable to drought. A drought-stressed tree is more susceptible to field mice/voles (they target weak trees). A vole-damaged tree can’t handle any additional stress.
The trees that died for me weren’t killed by one thing—they were killed by two or three problems happening at once.
What Survival Actually Looks Like
By the end of year three, your chestnuts should:
- Be 3-6 feet tall (chinese chestnuts, slower for others)
- Have strong, straight trunks
- Show vigorous new growth each spring
If your trees look weak, stunted, or stressed, investigate immediately. Don’t wait until year three to address problems.
My Current Survival Rate: 80%
For my next planting (expanding by 7 acres this spring), I’m doing:
3-foot weed barrier squares, not 2-foot
- Weekly hand-watering throughout summer dry spells
- Keeping tubes or wire cages on for minimum 3 years
- Monthly inspections, especially in winter
Cost breakdown for proper protection:
- Hardware cloth: $2/tree
- Better weed barrier: $1/tree
- Watering system: $15/tree (or just time for manual watering)
- Total: $3/tree to prevent losses
Compare that to:
- Replacement tree: $5-8
- Replanting labor: 1/2 to 1 hour
- Lost 2 years of growth: Priceless
- Real cost of tree death: $100+ when you factor in time and lost production
The Brutal Truth
If you’re planting chestnuts and thinking “I’ll just see what happens,” you’re going to lose 40-50% of your trees by year three.
If you invest an extra $25 per tree in protection and commit to vigilant year-two management, you’ll lose maybe 10-15%.
The difference between 50% losses and 10% losses on a 100-tree planting? That’s 40 trees × $100 real cost = $4,000 in value.
Plus, the psychological toll of watching trees die is real. It’s demoralizing.
The Year-Two Checklist
If you’ve got first-year chestnuts in the ground right now, here’s your spring year-two action plan:
March-April:
- Inspect every tree for vole damage
- Add hardware cloth (or mothballs if using tubes) if not already present
- Refresh mulch to 3-4 inches deep
- Check and repair any damaged tree tubes
May-June:
- Begin weekly watering schedule
- String trim within 10 feet of each tree
- Watch for weak leaf-out (sign of root problems)
July-August:
- Vigilantly maintain watering during dry spells
- Monitor for drought stress (leaf edges browning)
- Keep grass knocked back aggressively, especially weedy types that thrive in drought conditions and are directly competing with your seedlings for water
- Use herbicides wisely if going that route, protect trunk of seedlings
September-October:
- Final weed control before winter
- Check tree tubes are secure (buck rub season)
- Ensure mulch is thick enough for winter
November-February:
- Monthly checks for vole activity
- Set traps if you see vole signs, or consider creating raptor/owl housing or perching locations
Questions I Wish I’d Asked Before Year Two
“Should I fertilize in year two?” Generally no, unless your soil test shows deficiencies. Excess nitrogen encourages top growth at the expense of roots, making trees more vulnerable to drought and winter damage. Focus on keeping them alive and healthy; fertility can wait until year three.
“When can I remove the tree tubes?” Not in year two. Wait until year four minimum, or until trunk diameter exceeds 3 inches. The hassle of keeping tubes on is way less than replacing deer-damaged trees.
“How much water is enough?” For year-two trees: 3-5 gallons per week during growing season if no significant rain. Deep watering once a week beats shallow watering three times a week.
“Can I save a tree that looks like it’s dying?” Maybe. If it’s vole damage and the girdling isn’t complete, the tree might recover. If it’s drought stress caught early, aggressive watering can save it. If it fails to leaf out in spring, it’s probably done.
The Bottom Line
Year two is when your chestnut planting either succeeds or fails. The decisions you make (or don’t make) in months 12-24 determine whether you have a productive orchard or an expensive learning experience.
I chose the expensive learning experience route. You don’t have to.
Spend the extra few $ per tree. Do the monthly inspections. Keep the grass back. Water consistently. Check for field mice/voles.
Your year-ten self, harvesting chestnuts from healthy mature trees, will thank you.
Have you lost chestnut trees in years 1-2? What killed them? Drop a comment below—your experience might help other growers avoid the same mistakes.
Planning a chestnut planting? Download my free Year-Two Survival Checklist [link to email signup] with monthly tasks to keep your trees alive and thriving.
Affiliate Disclosure: This article contains affiliate links. If you purchase through these links, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. I only recommend products I use or would use on my own farm. Read my full disclosure policy.